I have A 87 Mustang Gt and I have been having problems with it running rich. I replaced both O2 sensors, New plugs, and tried fuel injection cleaner. This seemed to help some but it still runs rich. New Head Gaskets were installed prior to my purchase and I was thinking maybe it could be the intake worked loose, Map Sensor or fuel pressure regulator. Getting to the point where I am leaning to a carb setup to cut out all the part replacements.

Please help with Solid Ideas.
Thanks  

Sounds like the Throttle Position Sensor has gone bad.

Are you getting a check engine light?

Besides running rich, does the car have a stumble or any other problems.  

no the check engine light is not coming on but Someone before me thought they would be cute and install A MAC air flow kit with MAF Sensor, thing is they didn't even try to convert it so basically it is just a filter
I am having problems in the morning starting it, but in afternoon it does fine. When I do start it in the afternoon it wants to backfire and through the throttlebody, and hesitate when I am driving it. After the car warms up it responds well, and quits the hesitation. I have tried to time it to (10-12)the best I can but it has no degrees so I am kind of guessing it is about 3/4" before the tip of the marker.  It is smoking Black when it idols, but when I get on it or let off of the throttle it smokes white

Thanks for trying to help me  

you may have the wrong computer. check to see if the maf sensor is wired right. either they swapped the computer and didn't hook up the maf right, or didn't change the computer at all.  

I don't think they did anything accept try and pretty it up. They didn't change the pigtail to plug it in, so I seriously doubt they bothered with the computer.
I was wondering if I could use a computer from a Standard 91' 4cyl Mustang. Mine being a Automatic 5.0 I would have to change the trans to Manual which is what I want anyway. Would this work?  

wow what a problem...first white smoke indicated water, black smoke fuel & blue is oil.  gotta narrow all that down before you can diagnose anything,  Please dont scrap for a carbed set up.  You'll want to jump off a cliff when its time for inspection, or at very least reduce the value of your ride.  no one wants a cobbled mess & FI can make power.   but fires we want to get you back to factory set up the MAF deal you speak of aint the problem unless the cut wires, you said they didnt.  If it worked before any changes cool if not return to the last configuration before problems, dont just stab ecms untill all other faults fixed for sure.  really im thinking you have a fuel regulator not getting a vaccum signal offering no bypass & giving extreme fuel pressure @ all rpm ranges.  a bad intake gasket (which can be a *** if you dont use studs to hold the gasket & guide the intake on square.  this would give you steam in the exhaust.  any slugde on the breather or milK in the oil?  w/o enough vaccum the engine will start hard not idle properly & have off idle stumbles & wild fluctuations in the fuel curve.  Im guessing very rich off idle transitioning to ideal @ 3000 or so then moving lean as the engine starts to catch up w/ fuel pressure & using the unmetered aire from the leak then going lean as the air metered & not overcome the available fuel.  spray the inatke & vac hoses w/ carb cleaner & note any change.  Vaccum leaks can drive you nots just go to the basics if the car did runfine in its current configuration- rather than add to the list.  good luck  

Thanks alot for the input! With the car originally being High density and I believe A MASS AIR conversion will not fix my current problem. I had narrowed it to the thought of it drawing air through the intake gasket causing unmetered air to increase the fuel. The guy I bought it from told me the Head Gaskets were recently changed and I thought maybe they didn't get the intake gasket on correctly and I have been trying to get the time to check it out. Thanks for the Vacuum leak trick I will definatly check for them.
 Maybe this could help My car won't start in the early morning at all. If I wait til around 10:00 AM I normally have no problems at all starting it. When first driving it, it backfires through the TB and stalls, but after it warms up it does much better and stops the backfire. I checked the fuel pressure in the rails and they were at my manual specs also the time is 11 BTDC