Need info on 86 Notch

I just recently saved a 86 Notch from its doom, It was actually a kinda rare find. Its a Charcoal Grey 86 Notch which was a stock 5.0 and AOD. I found the car sitting in a field with the engine gone, other than that it is a complete car, wiring harness, tranny, 8.8, and even the factory headers and exaust as well as the interior were in tact( with exception of a few places of body damage and being dirty and nasty it was a great find. Anyway, to my questions, I am needing to know how to convert the speed density over to mass air and in doing this will I be able to run a 93 cobra computer with this conversion? Secondly, I want to convert this car to a T5 and I need a list of everything I need to do this with out any worries. Also, can I use the T5 out of a 93 4-banger? Lastly, I have found an 88 lincoln mark 7 that is a complete car, I know the engine will work but can I swap out the rearend with the disc brakes on it for my stock 8.8 and will there be a width difference? I also want to put the 87-93 quarter glasses in the car, what is needed for this swap? I am planning on using this car at the strip sometimes, but mainly for an everyday driver and maybe do a few shows, so with that said, What would be a good reliable engine build that is a "budget Build" that will make 400 hp at the wheels? Also what would be a good combination of engine, T5, and grars to make this build successful? I have a plan on where I want to go with the car, but any input would be appreciated. By the way, if anyone knows where I can find a factory hood with the scoop on it as well as a full center console please leave info on those as well. Thanks again, hope to hear some strong suggestions and advice on my build.  

Wow, ok, lot of stuff to cover here, but I'll see what I can do. First of all, awesome find. We're jealous. You can get a mass air conversion from several salvage outlets, including MPS Auto Salvage, or AMP Performance. I would recommend using a stock 5.0 computer, though. Likewise, MPS or AMP can help with the T5 conversion, as well. I wouldn't recommend going the 4-cylinder T5 route. Those transmissions aren't as stout as the V8 T5s. Plus, the 4-cylinder T5s feature different gear ratios that aren't well suited to a V8 car. I want to say the Lincoln rear might be wider than a Fox Mustang, but you can measure it and see. It would probably work, but the rear is wider so tire and wheel clearances will come into play. The '87-'93 quarter window question, you'll need interior quarter trim from a '87-'93 car too I believe. There's no such thing as a budget build when 400hp is desired. You can do a "budget" 347, but you'll be hard-pressed to reach 400hp on a budget. If you can do a 351-based stroker like a 408, that would be your best bet. However, that won't be cheap by any means. If it were me, I would probably do either a 331, or a 408 with a built T5 or Tremec, and 3.73 gears. That would be a fun car. Good luck.  
Michael Johnson
Associate Editor
5.0 Mustang and Super Fords

Thanks for the info, While Im on the subject, I have been doing some research and have ran across a couple of things that Im thinking could get me where I want to be with the car. First, I have looked at heads from Tri State Cylinder head are they worth the money, or would I be better off going the route I had planned with the Trick Flow kit with cam, heads, intake, etc.? I am going back with the original colors of the car which was Charcoal and there were only a little over 250 of those cars made, Im just adding my own custom touches here and there and it will have black accents as well as solid black interior. I was thinking the trick flow set upwould be very functional as well as go with the look that Im after. Another thing I am curious about, I know that most V8 T5's will accept the ford bell housing, so heres my question, Wouldnt the T5 in a late 80's or early 90's camaro work as well, or even a T56 out of a camaro or corvette? Also I am really considering buying a DSS 347 short block assembly, I believe that this would more than likely be more cost effective than buying the mark 7 for 800 bucks and then having to have the engine line bored decked and but a 347 kit, is this a good route to take? I have a block sitting in my shop that as best I can tell its a 79 302 block. I had bought a 83 Gt that I had sold and kept this block and I had already put new cam bearings, freeze plugs, and had it decked and bored .30 over, my question with this is will it accept the roller cam and lifters, I have been told both ways. I am trying to spend the least amount of money that I can, but at the asme time Im not going to sacrifice the performance that I am looking for because of a couple hundred bucks. Lastly, do you have a clue as to where I can find a stock hood that was produced in the early to mid 80's that had a factory hood scoop, I have no idea what this hood came out on, but my 83 gt had this hood and I really would like to find one and use it in my build. I want to go a route that will be a virtually stock look with exception of a few cosmetic enhancements, but using all mustangs parts. I am open to any input on this build and how I can acheive the 400 HP and the look I desire. Oh, by the way Michael, great name, Mine too! And lastly, just wanted you that not only was the car a great find, I only gave 500 bucks for it. My friends called me crazy, but I dont think they really understand the rareness of this car and its cover car potential. Anyway, any info you can give me would be appreciated, oh and what about a nitrous express dry kit with a 75 shot with the trick flow set up and the DSS 347 shortblock, could I get 400+ Hp going that direction?  

We have gotten good results from both the Tri-State cylinder heads and the Patriot Performance cylinder heads. Both are economically priced, which make them good bargains. Having said that, you're starting from scratch on the engine so if it were me, I would do the Trick Flow top end kit because you can get the stuff from one place, and be done with it. Trick Flow also has pushrods, and rockers, so that would help you out as well because they should know the proper length pushrod you will need. I am investigating the T5 question you have so give me a little bit on that one. The thing with your '79 block, it's not a hydraulic roller block, but the Mark 7 engine would be a roller so you would be starting out with a roller block, and not have to add a roller cam retrofit kit. I would do the Mark 7 engine, and save the '79 block for a nasty solid lifter build-up for a different car. Hold up, I just saw the part where you did all the stuff to the '79 302. If that stuff's already done, get the retrofit kit for the roller cam, and go in that direction. The '79 block will not allow to simply drop the roller cam and lifters into it. There's not a provision for the spider to hold the lifter bars in place. Your engine builder should be more knowledgeable than I in this instance so ask them.
For the hood scoop, it appears to me the '82 and '83 GTs had a factory hood scoop. As best I can tell you'll need to find one of these cars in a salvage yard or online to replicate that look.
The nitrous question, if you build the engine using good parts, you can spray a 125hp shot, and not worry about if your tune is right. That way, you should have no problem hitting 400hp at the wheels. If you can't make 400hp at the wheels with your aforementioned upgrades, and a 125hp hit of nitrous, you just need to hand over the car to us. LOL  
Michael Johnson
Associate Editor
5.0 Mustang and Super Fords

Ok, well handing the car over isnt an option, besides you guys have that sweet black T-Top coupe there so no need for mine. lol. Ok, so heres what I had planned, instead of doing a retrofit kit, I was thinking that I could use the flat tappet bottom end, I know that the roller would allow the engine to rotate with more ease therefore relaseing more power, but I can go with alot meaner cam profiles with the flat tappet with less money and still be able to use a great brand like Crane or Comp, and I could have any cam profile I want ground at Comp because I have a great friend who works there and I could get a great deal, or I could even go with a Mutha Thumper cam. My question with using the falt tappet block is if the heads from a roller engine would bolt up without any complications something like a GT40 head, or the aformentioned heads like the Tri State heads. If they would bolt up I could easily get 400 hp out of that block( the previous engine setup on the block made 430 hp on the dyno and it was in a dirt track car ) Remember, Im doing this and trying to save money at the same time and by not buying the mark7 that would free up the money to spend on a better head, like maybe an AFR 2.02 1.60 with 185cc chambers. A couple more questions that I have are while your checking into the tranny question for me, heres something to add with that. I know that you said that the 4 banger tranny wouldnt be stout enough, but if I were to rebuild it with the V8 internals it would be, if that can be done, I have been told that the T5 casing is the same on the V8 and 4 banger, the internals are the only difference, is that true? If so I have a T5 from a 4 banger in my garage along with 2 AOD's and a C3 and C4. I had thought about using the C4 but would rather have a T5 if my budget will allow. Lastly, if the heads from newer stangs will fit the old block that I have that would mean that the EFI intake would fit as well, would that be correct? I know that this is alot of questions but I never started on my old 83 GT and Im basically new to the Mustang world because I have been a Mopar man all my life, but parts and availability of old Mopars that arent ridiculously priced is hard to find. My last project( for a mustang guy its hard to appreciate ) was a 78 dodge lil red express truck with a mildly modified 360 that produced 400 hp at the wheels, but with the availibility of Mustangs and parts I fell in love with them and Ill never go back, especially If I can continue to find 79 to 86 cars. I love the 4 eye look of these. Speaking of, The woman that I bought my lil coupe from has an 85 gt with t-tops, an 89 white on white leather convertable gt, and a 65 stang all sitting in the same field for sale. Im thinking about rescuing all of them and storing them at my shop till I can work on them as well.  

The t-top coupe is KJ's, and he lives out in Cali. Turner's car's not done yet, nor is mine. Anyway, to these new questions, and we're going to start charging you for our knowledge, or lack thereof. LOL From what we can tell, in order to run a flat tappet cam with a late-model EFI, you'll need a 351-based camshaft to make sure the firing order is compatible with the EFI ignition system. And yes, any late-model head will bolt-on to the '79 block. I very much like the AFR 185 heads, they're awesome. And yes, the late-model EFI intake would work.
As for the transmission question, the GM and Ford T5s are different, unless you can find a mid-90s V6 Camaro T5. That might work. However, your 4-cylinder T5 case can be built to V8 T5 specs. You'll need the appropriate parts, including the front bearing and bearing retainer.
Buy the other 3 Mustangs, and ship them to us. We'll take care of all 3. Thanks.  
Michael Johnson
Associate Editor
5.0 Mustang and Super Fords

You dont know how much your help has been, but it very appreciated! As for the other stangs, I think Ill hold on to them and build my own stable of ponys, lol. Oh, and by the way, I went to my shop today and brought my block back home with me and after I inspected it, Im not so sure its a flat tappet block, call me crazy and like I said, Im new to Ford engines, but every flat tappet engine I have ever seen has had a place on the block to mount a mechanical fuel pump, would that be correct? If so, how do I identify the block to see what year it is and what it came out of? Do you know of any good links I could try to find out exactly what it is? This is part of the reason I started to just buy the DSS shortblock, at least till I can familiarize myself more with the ford engines and how to tell what Im looking at, as far as building tham, its the same as an old mopar, just different tech specs and I can build strong dependable engines all day long given the rights specs. Anyway, once again thanks for all your help and I promise I will stop hounding ya with alot of questions. The saddest thing is that when I took the block and had it vatted, and cam bearings and freeze plugs installed the gentleman told me that it was a 79 block so I took it at face value and didnt bother doing an inspect myself, but like I said, I have never seen a flat tappet engine that didnt have an opening on the block for a mechanical fuel pump, and usually my machinist is very good, but like I said, this is my first ford engine to build, and Im not sure of his knowledge of them as well. anyway, so you said that KJ lives in Cali, where are you guys offices located?  

We're located in the Tampa, FL offices. As for the engine, it should have engineering numbers on it from the factory. If it's a '79 engine, it will have a number starting in D9 or something similar. D stands for the 70s decade, and the 9 part would be for '79. Now, if it's a later block it would start with an E5. Like '87-'93 heads have a E7TE-something stamped into them. This is the same for an engine.  
Michael Johnson
Associate Editor
5.0 Mustang and Super Fords

Ok, thats what I thought, its definately a 79 then, Im just learning Fords so it kinda threw me off, but I thought what you desribed was the right way to read the year and decade code. Again thanks for the help and maybe when I come to Florida this year Ill look ya up and show ya the car.