Need help finding drive belt.

I bought a 1990 LX coupe that was a 4cyl but is now a carburated 8cyl. They kept the 4cyl wiring which meant the alternator was on the drivers side, they also removed the power steering pump which sat below the alternator and cut the lines. I spliced the alternator wires and moved it over to the correct side of the motor and also bought a alternator bracket for the swap, I got a power steering pump with bracket and put it where the alternator used to be. The engine is a 1986 5.0, this motor does not have an air pump either. I am using a Chiltons 1989-93 manual as my guide, this is where I'm at; I bought a Dayco #5060845 drive belt which is too big for what pulleys are on the motor: alternator, belt tensioner, water pump, crank shaft, and power steering. For what pulleys I have, can you make any suggestions to what drive belt I need to get and how should I route it.

Thanks,

David  

You need to find out if you have a reverse rotation water pump or not for the route of your belt.  Now for the size, you are going to have to do a trial and error for that.  I've found that the local autozone is usually cool with switching out belts, if you let them know that you are doing a trial and error on a custom setup.  
Good luck  

take a piece of string & go around the pulleys being used, add a couple inches , this should get you in the ballpark.  

I found a great site for water pumps and their rotations, www.flowkoolerwaterpumps.com it never crossed my mind about flow thanks. I used string and a tape measure to get the belt, I think I got the right size belt but I ran into some other promlems.I bought the alternator bracket with tensioner pulley used, it bolted right up to the block but what I noticed is the tensioner pulley points straight down, the distance from the side of the tensioner to the top of the water pump pulley is 2", center to center of the alternator pulley to the tensioner pulley is 5-1/4" inches when I installed the belt the only way to make it work was to run part of the belt over the tensioner the other part under if not the belt rubbed it self. I took the tenisoner off the bracket to see if there was another locating pin hole for adjustment, there was not. Is it possible I have the wrong bracket.

Thanks,

David  

You may have the right bracket.  If the belt is on right now and it almost touches itself, then have you tried a smaller belt to raise the tensioner up more.  I would put the tightest belt that I could slide on with the tensioner raised all the way up.  Remember that once your car is running with a new belt that the belt will loosen up a little bit.  

Or if you have an alternator bracket that accepts a smog pump, you can buy a smog pump delete pulley and that should bring the belt a more comfortable distance from rubbing itself.  You won't loose any horsepower cause it's a free spinning pulley.  You will need a bigger belt.  If you want one of those: check out Summit, Jegs, or latemodelrestoration.  

what I did when I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WAS RECLOCKED THE TENSIONER BY DRILLING A SECOND HOLE ON THE ON THE ALT BRACKET COUNTER CLOCK WISE FROM THE ORIGINAL HOLE BY ABOUT 1/2 INCH FROM CENTER TO CENTER YOU MAY FIND THAT MAY NEED TO MOVE IT MORE OR LESS  MY BELT IS A  740K6 DAYCO  

Thanks,
I'll do that this weekend, I bought a smog eliminator bracket with pully but only one end fits into the fitting below the alternator, there's nowhere to bolt the other end !!. I'm starting to get tired of this car. I bought it off E-bay in april 2009 and have only driven it twice, once off the trailer and up my driveway, come to find out that the fly wheel was bad (worn teeth) once I had the fly wheel redone $85 and a new clutch kit installed $250 Parts and labor and a transmission cover plate $35 the one on the car was from an automatic that they hacked up to fit. I drove the car up the street and back, that's been it. I moved the alternator it was on the drivers side, they kept the 4cyl wiring, I spliced it and put a power steering pump where the alternator was. Once I get the belt situation straight I have to replace the rack and pinion unit, they took the original power steering unit out and messed up the threads on the supply side of the unit. I hope to at least be able to drive the car on the regular by thanksgiving, thank's for all the good advice, I need as much as I can get.

David