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302 rebuild and tough turning crank?
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popeye0092
Mustang IIs Rock!
| Posts: 2
| Joined: 10/09
Posted: 10/14/09
07:49 AM
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We tore down a 302 efi(early 90's), we reassembled the pistons and rods back on the shaft and it is very difficult to crank by hand. Should it be failry easy or should you have to put a crap load of effort into it? This is my first rebuild so I am not sure and apologize for not alot of clearity.
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Posted: 10/15/09
08:07 AM
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How much of the short block is assembled and what do you mean by "very difficult to crank by hand"? If it is a complete shortblock and you're turning it over by pushing on the counter weights on the crank then yes it would be difficult to turn. If you mean that you're using a ratchet at the end of the crank to turn it then no it shouldn't be that difficult.
Did you install new main and rod bearings? Did you have the crank turned? When you have a crank turned they usually turn it .010. So with .010 removed from the journals on the crank the bearings have to be .010 thicker. If you didn't turn the crank and installed new bearings it's possible that you have a bearing that is .010 thicker. That would squeeze the crank and make it hard to turn. Most bearings will have a stamp on the backside that shows if they are .010, .020, etc.
1994 Cobra - 11.698 @ 118.45 (Finally in the 11's)
1969 Chevelle SS396 - 11.18 @ 121.15 / 10.18 @ 130.76 on a 150 shot.
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popeye0092
Mustang IIs Rock!
| Posts: 2
| Joined: 10/09
Posted: 10/16/09
12:09 PM
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The block only has the crank and all 8 pistons assembled. I am cranking with a rachet at the end of the crank and its takes every bit of pressure i can apply to get it to crank over. I did not install new bearings, I know i should but trying to go cheap. I am thinking at this point to go ahead and put new rod bearings in it.
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Posted: 10/19/09
06:22 AM
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Did you use assembly lube on the bearings before putting it back together and did you put all the main caps back in their correct spots and direction? I just want to make sure the bearings weren't dry when it went back together. If all this was done correctly then I would get some plasti-gauge and recheck the clearance on all the bearings. It should not be difficult to turn using a ratchet. The only force you are fighting right now while turning the crank is the friction of the pistons and rings. Like I said before if you only had the crank in the block with assembly lube on the bearings you should be able to turn the crank by just grabbing the end of it with your hand.
1994 Cobra - 11.698 @ 118.45 (Finally in the 11's)
1969 Chevelle SS396 - 11.18 @ 121.15 / 10.18 @ 130.76 on a 150 shot.
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