Call C&L. If it ran fine before the meter, and you put it on and it runs like crap. Then it has to be someting in the calibration of the meter. Did you try going back to the stock meter yet?  

yea, i tried the stock meter and it works fine with that, its just the c&l that makes it run bad.  

It sounds like the meter wasn't calibrated right for the car. Call C&L tell them what's up. You'll have to send it back to them. Then they'll redo it and send it back to you. The same thing happened to me with my Pro-M meter.  

i called c&l and they said it was because the stock electronics were dirty, and to clean them with brake kleen.  

What??????? If that were the case then the stock meter would do the same thing. Well try what they say then get them back on the phone. When it doesn't work. If they still give you *** tell them you want to return it so you can go get a Pro-M. That should do something. If not then return it. It is the meter because the car only runs bad when it's on. Stock it's fine. You'll have to drive that into there heads.    

they claim that it is a common problem, because their meters are more sensitive because more air is coming in. it sounds like a load of crap to me but i guess ill try it this weekend. and by the way is there anyway to tell what cam is in my car? and what heads should i get afr185, afr205, or trick flow high ports?  

It sounds like BS to me too, but try it you never know it might work.  The cam? I don't know of a easy way to tell. Talk to the previous owner and see if he knows anything about it. You could have it messured I guess. Other then that I don't know. Heads? It depends how radical you plan to get with the motor. Right now I'd say AFR 165's would be the best for your motor right now. The 185's will work but are alittle to big for your set up. The 205's and the High ports are way to big unless you plan to build a 351 based motor. Bigger isn't always better. It all about the right match of parts. Look at the Pure Street guy's for example. Most run AFR 165's or Twisted Wedge heads. .500 inch lift cams, and a basic intake. They run in the 10s on the motor. The real street guy are going 9's with stock cams and after market heads. You don't need the biggest heads you can get to go fast. I have a set of 165's on a 308 with a pure street grind cam. It has a Weiand Stealth intake, and a Holley 650 DP. Nothing to trick, but it should be in the mid 11 range on the motor.    

i eventually plan putting in a 347 with a forged bottom end(crank pistons, etc). and a decent sized came that still allows it to be "strretable." from there i want to add a procharger or a paxton supercharger, and maybe a small shot of nitrous(100). ive been looking alot at CHP's shortblocks on their website. i kind of wanted heads that would work now and then work later when i get around to doing this, if it s possible, let me know what you think.  

Ok then get the AFR 185's. They will work on your motor now and be a good match for the 347. The 205's would be more for a streetable 408, not a 347. Now if it was going to be an all out race motor then it's a different story. Twisted Wedge heads would work too, but I'd want them ported for the 347. The AFR's are already done. I like the CHP motors. I talked to the guy's from there a few years ago at the Maple Grove race. They really seemed to know there stuff. I wouldn't be afraid to buy any of there motors. Becareful about running 2 power adders. It's real easy to get a lean condition when running a blower and nitrous. If that happens say good by to your new motor. I would run one or the other not both. I think you could get away with running a small 25 hp shot with a blower as a kind of aftercooler. As long as you were giving the motor enough fuel. Running much more then that would be a bit dangerous. It can and is done but you really have to be on the ball to get away with it.  

what blower and intercooler would you suggest  

I don't know what I would say to get. I've had nothing but good things to say about my Procharger. I also like the Paxton Novi 2000, and the Vortech S-Trim with the Aftercooler. I don't think there is a big difference between those three. The only one I'd say stay away from is Powerdyne. Although I've heard that they got there act together now. I still would stay with one of the big three. I think that if I had it to do over again I would look into a turbo kit instead of a blower. I know it's more money, but I think it would be worth it. With anyone of the blowers I talked about. You wouldn't see top boost untill right at redline. A turbo gives you full boost a lot lower in the RPM range so you'll get much more useable power out of a turbo with the same boost level. Plus,  How many do you see out on the street?  

i guess i never really thought about going that route. what are some good turbos for mustangs, ive never really looked into them. i always considered them to be for ricers. but if it performs better its worth checking out.  

Here you go. http://www.turbochargedpower.com/ 

It took me a little to find the web site. This is the kit that MM&FF have been using in a couple of there dyno motors. I've been impressed by the results. I really think that this would be the the way to go. It would be easy to build a 400hp 347. Then add a turbo at around 7psi, and have around 600 hp. With pump gas! You wouldn't see those kind of #'s with a blower.

thats about the exact #'s that i was looking for, i wanted to end up between 500 & 600hp. is there anything special that must be done to the motor to bolt on a turbo?