big question on my 93 GT

i recently installed twisted wedge heads and trick flows stage 1 cam with there 1.6 rockers,  typhoon intake with their 70mm throttle body and spacer, 73mm c&l mass air with 24lb injectors, bbk shorty headers with off road h-pipe to flowmaster cat-back, bbk fenderwell intake, 190lph walbro fuel pump, march pulleys, 130amp alternator, electric fan, crane ignition and coil. I have the fuel set at 40psi and timing 14' btdc. Also, it idles at about 750 rpms.  Now i have a few question are my settings right? Should it have a little rough idle with this cam? It doesn't bounce. How come it stalls out sometimes when i start it or when i get off the gas when i come to a light or stop sign? It just seems like the car is running rough? Any ideas would help. I did check numerous times for vacuum leaks but everything looks good. It seems to have alot of power but im leary when its idling. Also should i get this car dyno tuned? If so, anyone know anybody in the Connecticut area? Also is there anything else i missed performance wise?  

i did set the new tps sensor to .996 volts. could it be a bad egr?  

Only 2 things: 1. Timing can go as high as 19' BTDC but may ping on you and need to cut it back some... advancing the timeing will raise idle speed some.  You need to test that first since its free HP if you can advance it without ping.  Your Idle speed seems a little slow.  There is a modificaton available from Ford on the Idle.  2. Fuel pressure might be a little low @40.  On the jumpy part, remember you went with a higher output cam so expect it not to idle like stock.  I don't remember if you have cold air intake and filter but that will also affect it some.  Could a dyno tuner help, sure.  

A sticking/ stuck egr will cause it to die. 40 psi is perfect at idle. but rev the engine to ensure it doesnt bleed off below 35 psi.  check the IAC and make sure its not worn out.  

I have a stoich. gauge on my 408w, and 40psi would be a little too rich for my setup.  I have to stay about 38psi.  There is no hard and fast rule for fuel pressure.  The ideal psi will depend on many variables including the manufacturing variation is injetor flow.  However, I would hesitate to think that this is the source of your idle problems. 

I believe the Trick Flow Stage 1 is still a 112 grind.  If this is true then it should not have a significant impact on idle quality.  Running 110 cams will. 

Look into the EGR.  Unless the diaphragm is bad you may be able to clean it with a solvent or fuel, just be sure that you get the cleaning fluid dry before re-installing.  This should get it to stop sticking if it is simply dirty.  It may deteriorate the diaphragm though.  I would try this, and if it worked, I would then buy a new EGR.  This is probably not recommended in any books, I am just thinking out loud.

Also, the ignition timing for every engine will be different, sometimes very different.  Personally I have always set mine without the use of a timing gun (except for breaking in a new motor).  If you pay attention you can tell if the motor is happy or unhappy with the timing. 

Good luck

I have a really close setup on my stang. I like the power, but have not been able to get the car not to surge at idle. I've tried a few things, but no solution yet. I have the idle at 1000 so it won't stall when surging. I don't have a adj. fuel press reg. or chip yet to see if either will help. Just thought I'd share my pain. thanks  

I'm having the same surge issue with mine, and all I did was increase the airflow thru the system with a 73mm C&L MAF, cone filter, and a cold  air duct pushing cold air up to the filter.  It surges above 20 mph if I'm at part throttle causing a driveline jerking and banging.  If I depress the clutch, the tach will swing +-100 rpm until I get below 20 mph, the it settles down into about 800 rpm idle.  At road speed, its OK, but crusing around town, stop and go, its annoying as heck.  What is up with that???  

I have to get it figured out this year, cause I'm sick of it. If I get it figured out I'll post my results. I've checked alot of things already, maybe I'm testing something wrong. I've got a question into Summit tech. Maybe I'll try the mag, and see what they say.  

I may have this one figured out for you.  Was talking with some bike guys who are also car guys.  They said to check the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS).  Do this by putting on a ohm meter with needle so you can see sweep into the leads of the TPS.  With engine off and sensor unpluged, move the throttle slowly to full open, then back to closed again.  If needle jumps back up after going to closed position, then that's the problem.  You may need to put some probes into the plug or bend ends of paper clip to get contact in the plug.

I measured one that I had off the car and it gave a normal reading without jumping around.  I'm expecting the one on the car to be bad.  Yours may be same way.  Good luck!  Ron

just thought you would like to know- my car made 298hp and 330 ftlb of torque at the wheels. This was done on a Dynojet in NJ. I also got some advise on my idle problem. I drilled a 1/8 hole in the center of the butterfly in the throttle body. This helped alot. It still slighty surges when i let off the gas but only about 2-3 times. It only surges about 200-300rpms than idles smoothly at 800rpms. It made the most power with 16' of timing and fuel pressure set at 39psi with the vacuum line off. If anyone is interested the heads with push rods and cam are going to go on ebay this fall. I already have another short block i just put together (347ci) and im going to get the ARF 185cc emmision legal heads, with a different cam.